Hook up 24 volt trolling motor
In other words hook it up to one battery, then the next time you use it hook it up to the other battery. If you apply 24 volts to it, it will probably turn real fast for a short amount of time then the smoke would come out of it. You can do it, but highly NOT recommended.
Trolling Motor Plug
By drawing power off 1 battery, you will weaken age that battery more than the other, and the capacity of the 24V battery string is LIMITED by the weakest battery in the string. In other words, you will never again achieve the full potential capacity of your 24V system.
It would be OK to do this a couple times, as in an emergency. Hook up the 12V motor to the appropriate terminals of EITHER battery, and when you have exhausted it, switch the terminals to the other battery. Lake-Link asks you to please take a moment to visit our fine sponsors: July 26th, , Your diagram for your trolling motor batteries is obviously very simple, they are connected in series, and it sounds like your battery charger can handle this without disconnecting them.
Wiring Batteries for Trolling Motors - gukojegumeco.ga
Now, you also want to be able to jump your starter with one of your trolling motor batteries, which would mean puttin it in parallel across ONE of the batteries not both. This is also possible, and you don't even need to break the series connection between your trolling batteries. But, you certainly do NOT want it connected in parallel all the time.
Now, this is all very simple if you wanted to keep both systems seperate, with the occasional jump start. If you want to charge all three batteries with the outboard, things get infinitely more complex. At that point, you would need to break the series connection between your trolling batteries, and connect them in parallel, and then connect that in parallel with your starting motor.
With all these parallel connections, you can develop large loop-currents, which isn't a good idea. I'd then recommend isolators between the batteries to eliminate the loop currents, and with so many connections and dis-connections, it becomes extremely difficult to do with one switch. July 27th, , Let say for the moment, I dont do the charge all three batteries with the motor alternater and just do the jump one trolling motor battery to the starter battery Batt 3 pos to buss 2A pos and neg to neg buss 2B. What is the best way to wire for this condition?
My diagram shows it connected in parallel all the time.
How to Hook Up a 24 Volt Trolling Motor
Meaning, The starter battery and one of the trolling motor batteries batt 3 would be under charge all the time from the alternater? Would this circuit have to be broken with a switch. Would one of these both battery switches work? If I used a switch to break the circuit and the starter battery was drained, when I flip the switch to jump the dead battery, the dead starter battery would draw all the power from the trolling motor battery. Would this harm my alternater? What is the best way to wire for this jump condition. Would a isolator work here too.
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- Wiring Batteries for Trolling Motors!
- 24 volt trolling motor wiring diagram - gukojegumeco.ga Community Discussion Forums.
I wish I could sent you my diagram. Maybe from the discribtion above you would draw it out. What size isolator and switch would I need to work. I looked up a site called onlinemarine. They have many switches and isolators. Maybe you would advise me on the ones I need, in order the make the system work?? July 28th, , What is the most advertised aspect of a starter battery?
Cold Cranking amps, or CCA. Forget the cold part, and look at the number. It's usually amps or more.
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Why do you think that is? Because your motor often requires several hundred amps to start it up. Now, amps is for a big-block cubic-inch V8, so I doubt your outboard requires amps, but it's entirely possible to require amps, maybe more.
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- Trolling Motor Plug;
Does that mean you need a switch rated for amps? You're certainly not going to be drawing amps for 8 hours. Hopefully only 10 seconds at most, so you can get away with a much lower rating. I'd recommend a switch with at least a 50 amp rating, and more is safer. So let's say you have your switch, now back to the original wiring diagram. You have your starter battery and one of your trolling motor batteries connected in parallel.
Simply put that switch in the line between the positive terminals the negative terminals can stay connected, it won't hurt anything. When the switch is off, those two batteries are disconnected and your two battery systems are completely seperate. When you want a jumpstart, flip the switch on, start your motor, and then flip it off again. I have added the switch for jump starting. Although I imagine your motor actually takes the 12v from trolling battery 2 rather than 1.
The only thing I would say is to make sure of your ground. Your trolling motor has three wires input, correct? What are they labeled?
Are they labeled ground, 12V, and 24 volt? August 2nd, , The only differance is that I added the dual charger and I used a 4 circuit 60 amp terminal bar to make the 24 volt cross over. In this way, all you have to do is hook up the pos and neg leads to the batteries. The charger wiring is simple.